Nonchalance, good humor, and old-fashioned charm: welcome to Lisbon
This month, our adventurous (but not too adventurous) emissaries set off to explore the capital of Portugal and give us an account of their journey.
Arriving in Lisbon after a quick and uneventful flight, the first surprise awaited me upon arrival in the city: the adorable little yellow tram that inevitably appears in photos of the city is actually a common form of public transport used by locals, not a tourist attraction! (Yes, I'm easily impressed.) Incidentally, it's also quite handy for climbing the cobbled streets up and down, because, believe it or not, Lisbon is full of hills. Enough of the platitudes (in Lisbon, a little flat ground never hurts), let's get down to business with some tips for making the most of a Lisbon getaway.
1. START A DIET ONE YEAR IN ADVANCE
I know, I know: we're not here to rewrite the Lonely Planet, but if you're anything like me, you probably tend to dismiss anything that seems too touristy. I implore you, make an exception for the "pasteis de nata": yes, they're in all the guidebooks, but no, that's no reason not to try them! We particularly recommend the ones at Pasteris Manteigaria. The interior isn't very big, but while leaning against the counter to enjoy a pasteis de nata with a coffee (mmm, pasteis de nata with coffee <3), you can watch the pastry chef prepare them (with homemade puff pastry, no less). A delight.
We had already visited northern Portugal, but aside from the seafood, we hadn't been particularly impressed by the cuisine. Lisbon, on the other hand, boasts a diverse and refined culinary scene. To enjoy good wine and excellent sardines in a warm atmosphere while being entertained by the owner's boisterous and energetic personality, head to Grau Douro Tapas & Wine Bar. Reservations are highly recommended; it's a well-known spot in the neighborhood!
2. LEAVE WITH AN EMPTY SUITCASE AND A TENDER WINDFALL
Portugal is one of the few European countries to have maintained a (relatively) developed textile industry, and Portuguese designers, though little known abroad, are certainly not lacking in energy or imagination. To see for yourself, stroll up and down Rua Dom Pedro V: it's THE place to be for Lisbon designers, in a decidedly chic neighborhood. Another pleasant surprise: sustainable development and respect for the environment seem to have been a priority for Portuguese brands long before the current wave of greenwashing. The Lidija Kolovrat brand, in particular, caught our eye with its ultra-graphic XXXXL cuts and flashy colors.
Outside the city, in Alcantara, the LX Factory space caught our eye. There's something about it that vaguely reminds me of Camden; in any case, this former industrial complex has been converted into a space housing a mix of shops of all kinds, restaurants, bars, galleries…
Quick little quiz:
a) Do you wear a beard and/or a topknot with shaved sides?
b) You never part with your tote bag and buy all your books second-hand?
c) You spend the equivalent of three times your annual salary on clothes but you would rather shoot yourself in the foot than admit it?
If you have checked one or more options, congratulations, you meet all the criteria to visit LX Factory (yes, it's trendy, but in a Portuguese way: without too much pretension and with a contagious good mood!).
3. DURING YOUR DIET, TAKE UP HIKING AND MARATHON RUNNING
Walking around Lisbon is one of the city's greatest pleasures: the atmosphere is relaxed and leisurely, with a pace much slower than most other European capitals. The little cobbled streets are charming, and when you climb (it's inevitable, but the good news is you come back down again), certain corners of the city (like Rua São Tomé in the Alfama district) offer a superb view of the Tagus River. Let's be honest, I know it's the Tagus because I looked it up on Google Maps; otherwise, I would have mistaken it for the Atlantic Ocean.
4. Throw away all your phrasebooks
Yes indeed: unlike us Frenchies, Lisbon residents seem to have an innate talent for foreign languages, and most of them speak either French, English, or both. Needless to say, we didn't exactly improve our Portuguese, but one thing is certain: Lisbon is well worth a visit, and we came back enchanted. It's a city that seems particularly pleasant to live in, where the old-fashioned charm of the little yellow trams and pretty cobblestone streets goes hand in hand with the innovative energy of a European capital.
@Clémentine Martin, our travel reporter 💚
